The Moth Dress
Abstract
Madame Grès is known for creating sculptural dresses with fine pleats that were draped directly on the body. This work seeks to examine the designer’s intricate pleating techniques and the construction process by replicating the pleats in the bodice of the dress. The pleating details are formed by pinning the corner of the fabric to the dress form shoulder and draping the pleats directly on the form. The pleats are secured to the bodice with stitches that catch the pleat edges. The design consists of an 8-gore dress with pleated bodice and a high-collared cape with piping at the edges and button placket. The dress also honors the silk moth, the adult stage of the silkworm which few live to see. Silk moth applique details, made by machine embroidering the moth designs on silk fabric, are designed and sewn to the cape of the ensemble, resembling a moth’s landing.
Keywords: Madame Grès, pleating, draping, couture sewing, silk moth, preservation
How to Cite:
Wilson, M. & Ghalachyan, A., (2024) “The Moth Dress”, International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings 80(1). doi: https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.17081
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